Hair bleaching and colouring compositions

ABSTRACT

A hair bleaching composition comprising:  
     (a) a peroxygen compound;  
     (b) a buffering agent; and  
     (c) cholesterol and/or derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof;  
     characterized in that the pH of the composition is greater than pH 10.  
     The composition effectively bleaches hair whilst causing less damage than conventional bleaches.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] This invention relates to hair bleaching and colouringcompositions and methods of bleaching and colouring hair.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Hair contains the pigment melanin in granular form within thehair cortex. The darker the perceived hair colour, the higher theconcentration of melanin in the hair. Chemical and natural dyes may alsobe applied to hair to alter the perceived hair colour. The objective ofhair bleaching compositions is to decolourise both the naturallyoccurring melanin pigment and in addition any synthetic pigments appliedto the hair. Hair colouring compositions generally contain agents firstto decolourise the hair and dyes subsequently to colour the decolourisedhair.

[0003] Hair bleaching and colouring treatment of hair is generallyassociated with a number of disadvantages such as causing hairbrittleness and damage.

[0004] Damage to the hair typically manifests itself in cuticle andprotein loss from the hair fibre, excessive fibre stiffness, hair fibrebrittleness and breakage and frayed or split ends.

[0005] Solutions to the problem of hair damage caused by hair bleachingand colouring compositions have been suggested in the art. WO 98/27945describes the use a low pH (pH 1 to 6) oxidative hair dye system toreduce hair damage. JP 63-297317 describes the optional use ofcholesterol in a hair dye composition to improve the strength and feelof hair. In general, the darker the hair the higher the pH required inorder effectively to decolourise the higher concentration of melaninpigment. Unfortunately these necessarily harsh conditions in order todeliver effective bleaching and colouring can be particularly damagingto the hair.

[0006] Thusfar hair bleaching and colouring compositions have beenunable to fully satisfy the desire for effective bleaching with minimalhair damage, particularly for dark-brown and black hair.

[0007] Hair bleaching and/or colouring compositions which can delivereffective hair bleaching and/or colouring, even on dark hair, but whichavoid or reduce hair damage and deliver improved damage repair andprotection to the hair thus continue to be sought.

[0008] We have now found that if hair bleaching and colouringcompositions are buffered to a pH above pH 10, the presence ofcholesterol reduces damage, protects hair from damage and/or improvesdamage repair to a greater extent than in such compositions having a pHbelow pH 10. Such compositions are advantageous since they can delivereffective bleaching and colouring of dark hair whilst the damagegenerally caused by such high pH systems is reduced by a surprisingextent.

[0009] Hair bleaching and colouring compositions according to thepresent invention demonstrate improved efficacy in the repair andprevention of the principal symptoms of damaged hair.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0010] According to a first aspect of the present invention there isprovided a hair bleaching composition comprising:

[0011] (a) a peroxygen compound;

[0012] (b) a buffering agent; and

[0013] (c) cholesterol and/or derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof;

[0014] characterised in that the pH of the composition is greater thanpH 10.

[0015] According to a second aspect of the present invention there isprovided a hair colouring composition comprising the hair bleachingcomposition according to the first aspect and additionally a haircolouring agent.

[0016] According to a third aspect of the present invention there isprovided a method of bleaching and/or colouring hair comprising applyingto the hair the bleaching composition and/or colouring compositionaccording to the first and/or second aspects of the invention.

[0017] According to a further aspect of the present invention there isprovided a hair bleaching kit comprising:

[0018] (a) a first package containing a peroxygen compound;

[0019] (b) a second package containing a buffering agent; and

[0020] (c) cholesterol and/or derivatives thereof or mixtures thereofcontained in the first and/or second package and/or in a third package;

[0021] characterised in that the peroxyen compound, buffering agent andcholesterol and/or derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof form, whenmixed, a hair bleaching composition according to the first aspect of thepresent invention having a pH greater than 10.

[0022] According to a still further aspect of the present inventionthere is provided a hair colouring kit comprising:

[0023] (a) a first package containing a peroxygen compound;

[0024] (b) a second package containing a buffering agent;

[0025] (c) cholesterol and/or derivatives thereof or mixtures thereofcontained in the first and/or second package and/or in a third package;and

[0026] (d) a hair colouring agent contained in the second package and/orthird package, and/or a fourth package;

[0027] characterised in that the peroxyen compound, buffering agent,hair colouring agent and cholesterol and/or derivatives thereof ormixtures thereof form, when mixed, a hair colouring compositionaccording the second aspect of the invention having a pH greater than10.

[0028] A still further aspect of the present invention provides a methodof bleaching and/or colouring hair using the hair bleaching and/orcolouring kit described above comprising the steps of admixing thecontents of the packages followed by applying the bleaching and/orcolouring composition to the hair.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0029] Peroxygen Compound

[0030] The compositions of the invention comprise as an essentialfeature at least one peroxygen compound. Mixtures of two or more suchcompounds may be used if desired. The peroxygen compounds bleach hair bysolubilising and oxidising melanin.

[0031] Hydrogen peroxide is the most preferred peroxygen compound foruse in the bleaching and colouring compositions of the presentinvention, though many other peroxygen compounds are suitable.

[0032] Other peroxygen compounds suitable for use are generally watersoluble peroxygen compounds such as peroxygen bleaches capable ofyielding hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution. Water soluble in thisrespect means a peroxygen compound which can be substantiallysolubilised in water at 25° C. Water soluble peroxygen bleachingcompounds are well known in the art and, other than hydrogen peroxide,include inorganic alkali metal peroxides such as sodium priodate andsodium peroxide, organic peroxides such as urea peroxide and melamineperoxide and inorganic perhydrate salt bleaching compounds such as thealkali metal salts of perborates, percarbonates, perphosphates,persilicates, persulphates and the like.

[0033] The peroxygen compound is generally present in the compositionsof the present invention at a level from 0.01% to 40%, preferably from0.1% to 20%, most preferably from 1% to 7%, by weight of thecomposition.

[0034] Buffering Agent and pH of the Compositions

[0035] The pH of the bleaching and colouring compositions of the presentinvention are buffered such that they are greater than pH 10. A widevariety of buffering agents well known in the art are suitable for thispurpose.

[0036] The most preferred buffering agent is an aqueous alkalinesolution containing ammonia (ammonium hydroxide). Ammonia has theadvantage of enhancing the bleaching and colouring treatment of hair byswelling the hair fibre to aid diffusion of peroxygen compounds into thehair. This allows faster and more effective solubilisation anddecolouration of melanin or synthetic hair dyes.

[0037] Other suitable buffering agents include ethylamine,dipropylamine, triethylamine and alkanediamines such as1,3-diaminopropane, anhydrous alkaline alkanolamines such as, mono ordi-ethanolamine, hydroxides of alkali metals, such as sodium andpotassium hydroxide, hydroxides of alkali earth metals, such asmagnesium and calcium hydroxide, basic amino acids such as L-alginine,lysine, oxylysine and histidine and alkanolamines such asdimethylaminoethanol and aminoalkylpropanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0038] It is an essential feature of the present invention that thecompositions are buffered to a pH which is greater than pH 10. In apreferred embodiment the pH of the compositions are buffered to a pHwhich is greater than or equal to pH 10.1, more preferably greater thanor equal to pH 10.3, and most preferably greater than or equal to pH10.5.

[0039] A sufficient amount of buffering agent is present in thecompositions of the present invention in order to buffer thecompositions to the required pH in conventional manner.

[0040] We have now found that in hair bleaching and colouringcompositions which are buffered to a pH above pH 10, cholesterol reducesdamage, protects hair from damage and/or improves damage repair to agreater extent than in such compositions having a pH below pH 10. Suchcompositions are advantageous since they can deliver effective bleachingand colouring of dark hair whilst the damage generally caused by suchhigh pH systems is reduced by a surprising extent.

[0041] Cholesterol

[0042] A further essential component of the bleaching and colouringcompositions of the present invention is cholesterol. Derivatives ofcholesterol such as cholesterol esters, cholesterol fatty acid esters,and cholesterol acetate esters are also suitable for use in thecompositions of the present invention.

[0043] The level of cholesterol or derivatives in the composition issuitably from 0.005% to 5%, preferably from 0.001% to 3%, optimally from0.01% to 0.1%, by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

[0044] Hair Colouring Agents

[0045] The hair colouring compositions of the present inventionadditionally include one or more hair colouring agents. Hair colouringagents suitable for use in the compositions of the present inventioninclude both oxidative and non-oxidative dyes and mixtures thereof. Suchhair colouring agents may be used with the bleaching systems of thepresent invention to formulate permanent, demi-permanent, semi-permanentor temporary hair dye compositions.

[0046] (i) Oxidative Dyes

[0047] The dye forming intermediates used in oxidative dyes aregenerally classified as primary and secondary intermediates. Primaryintermediates are chemical compounds which by themselves will form a dyeupon oxidation. The secondary intermediates, also known as colourmodifiers or couplers are used with other intermediates for specificcolour effects or to stabilise the colour.

[0048] Primary oxidative dye intermediates are generally colourlessmolecules prior to oxidation. The oxidative dye colour is generated whenthe primary intermediate is oxidised and subsequently enjoined with asecondary intermediate (coupling agent), which is also generallycolourless, to form a coloured, conjugated molecule.

[0049] Oxidative dye intermediates diffuse into the hair shaft, and thenare oxidised and coupled to form larger dye complexes within the hairshaft which are less readily washed out thus forming a “permanent” haircolour change.

[0050] The secondary intermediates (colour modifiers or couplers), arepreferably used in conjunction with the oxidative dye precursors and arethought to interpose themselves in the coloured polymers during theirformation and to cause shifts in the electronic spectra thereof, therebyresulting in slight colour changes.

[0051] A wide range of oxidative dyes suitable for use herein are wellknown in the art, such as aromatic diamines, amino phenols, polyhydricphenols and derivatives thereof. Preferred oxidative dyes for use in thepresent invention include m-phenylenediamine, toluene-2,5-diamine,p-phenylenediamine, resorcinol, o-aminophenol, m-aminophenol,p-aminophenol, 1-naphthol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 2-methylresorcinol,N4, N4-bishydroxyethyl-p-phenylene diamine sulphate,3-methyl-4-aminophenol, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazolone and2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol.

[0052] (ii) Non-oxidative Dyes

[0053] Non-oxidative dyes include direct dyes, semi-permanent, temporaryand other dyes. Various types of non-oxidative dyes are well known inthe art.

[0054] Natural dyes and vegetable dyes may also be included in thecolouring compositions of the present invention. Examples include henna,camomile, indigo, logwood and walnut hull extract.

[0055] Temporary hair dyes, or hair colouring rinses, are generallycomprised of dye molecules which are too large to diffuse into the hairshaft and which act on the exterior of the hair. They are usuallyapplied via a leave-in procedure in which the dye solution is allowed todry on the hair surface.

[0056] Semi-permanent hair dyes are generally larger than permanent(oxidative) dyes. Typically, semi-permanent dyes act in a similar mannerto oxidative dyes in that they have the potential to diffuse into thehair shaft. However, semi-permanent dyes are generally smaller in sizethan the aforementioned conjugated oxidative dye molecules and as suchare pre-disposed to gradual diffusion out of the hair again. Simple hairwashing and cleaning action will encourage this process. Suitablesemi-permanent dyes for use in the compositions of the present inventioninclude HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Red 3, Disperse Violet 4, DisperseBlack 9, HC Blue 7, HC Yellow 2, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse violet I andmixtures thereof.

[0057] Direct dyes, such as nitro dyes do not require oxidation to dyethe hair. They are usually applied to the hair in a base formulationwhich includes surfactant material. Suitable direct dyes includederivatives of nitroamino benzene, nitro aryl amines or azo dyes.

[0058] Optional Materials and Cosmetic Adjunct

[0059] Besides the actives, the compositions of the present inventionmay also contain other ingredients conventionally used in the art suchas diluents, sequestrants, thickeners, carriers, surfactants (anionic,cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and mixtures thereof),antioxidants, proteins, polypeptides, preservatives, moisturisingagents, solvents, perfumes, enzymes, polymers and conditioners.

[0060] Product Form

[0061] The compositions according to the present invention may bepresented in kit form comprising a number of separate compartmentscontaining the various ingredients of the final composition for mixingby the user immediately prior to application to the hair. The kit maycomprise multiple containers or a single container having multiplecompartments.

[0062] One component of the kit comprises an individually packagedperoxygen compound. A further kit component comprises an individuallypackaged buffering agent. In one embodiment of the present invention theindividually packaged peroxygen compound comprises a stabilised aqueoussolution of a water-soluble peroxygen bleach compound, most generallyhydrogen peroxide in an amount such that the final concentration of thecompound for use on the hair is from 0.5% to 14% by weight of thecomposition, and the individually packaged buffering agent comprisesammonium hydroxide in an amount such that the pH of the composition oncemixed is greater than pH10. The cholesterol (or derivatives) may becontained in the peroxygen compound compartment or the buffering agentcompartment, or indeed in a further separate compartment. Optionally ahair colouring agent (for hair colouring compositions)and/or additionalagents as herein before described may also be included in with thebuffering agent compartment, cholesterol compartment (if present) orindeed in a still further separate compartment.

[0063] Most conveniently the kit comprises two separate compartments,one containing the peroxygen compound, the other containing thebuffering agent and hair colouring agent (if present) and the otheroptional ingredients mentioned above; the cholesterol being present ineither or both of those two compartments.

[0064] The compartmentalised ingredients of the composition aregenerally mixed by the user immediately prior to application to thehair.

[0065] Method of Use

[0066] The compositions of the present invention may be used to bleachhair or may, in combination with hair colouring agents, be used tobleach and colour hair.

[0067] The bleaching/colouring compositions herein are applied to thehair for periods of from 1 minute to 90 minutes depending upon thedegree of bleaching/colouring required. A preferred time is between 5minutes and 30 minutes.

[0068] The products provide excellent hair bleaching and/or haircolouring together with minimal hair damage.

EXAMPLES Example 1

[0069] This example demonstrates the hair damage reduction provided bycholesterol in hair bleaching compositions at various pHs.

[0070] Step 1: Preparation of the Test Bleaching Solutions.

[0071] Two bleaching solutions, Solution 1 without cholesterol (as acontrol) and Solution 2 with cholesterol, were prepared in the followingmanner: Bleaching Solution 1 (No Cholestrol) % Active Amount MaterialSpecies % w/w (g) SLES 2E0 25.94 8.00  30.84 (Tegobetain CK) CAPB 304.00  13.33 (Tegobetain CK) Dequest 100 0.20  0.20 Hydrogen 30 4.00 13.33 Peroxide (ex Sigma) Water (DI)  42.29 Total 100.00

[0072] For the bleaching solution with cholesterol, Solution 2, firstthe dequest was weighted into the water in a tall form beaker andallowed to dissolve. Once dissolved the cholesterol and a small amountof SLES 2EO (approximately 1 g) were weighted into the dequest solutionand heated in a waterbath to 70° C. with continuous stirring using thesmall cog of a heidolph stirrer. The solution was left to stir and coolto approximately 35-40° C. for at least an hour. Once cooled thesolution was mixed using a high sheer mixer (Ystral) for 1 min onsetting 4.

[0073] The solution was then returned to the heidolph and allowed tocool to room temperature with constant stirring. Once cool the CAPB andremaining SLES 2EO were added and mixed using the heidolph.

[0074] To prepare solution 1 (no cholesterol) then there is no need forheating up the solution. The dequest was weighted into water and then,once dissolved the CAPB was added and mixed using the heidolph. Oncedissolved the SLES 2EO was added and returned to the heidolph.

[0075] Step 2: Bleaching Method

[0076] The bleaching solutions 1 and 2 were each divided into threeparts A, B and C. A was adjusted to pH 9.7, B to pH 10.1 and C to pH10.5. Each solution was adjusted to the required pH with ammoniumhydroxide (ex sigma, 28.1% active).

[0077] The six solutions were each dosed (1.6 ml/g hair) onto a separateSpanish hair switch (8 g, 8″, ex Hugo Royer Hair Suppliers) in adisposable petri dish using an automatic pipette. Each switch was thenagitated for 90 sec using a spoon ended plastic spatula. The switcheswere then left for 20 min. 1.6 ml/g hair of warm water was then pipettedonto each switch and they were agitated again for 1 min. Each switch wasthen rinsed and left to dry naturally.

[0078] Step 3: Cuticle Abrasion Method

[0079] This method provides a measure of the extent of hair damagefollowing the bleaching step.

[0080] First the switches from step 2 were washed for 30 sec with 0.1ml/g hair of base wash. Rinse and repeat. The base wash used is 12%SLES, 2% CAPB in water. Dry them overnight. Cut the hair about 1 cm longthroughout the whole length. Weight out 4 g of the hair and place intothe blender (Waring 11 commercial blender). Record the initial weight ofthe hair. Add 200 ml of distilled water to the blender, making sure thatthe hair is covered with water. Blend hair in the water for 1 min.Transfer the liquid to a fresh tube. Wash the blender and add this, tothe tube, as well. Pour the supernatant in 4×50 ml centrifuge tubes andcentrifuge at 4300 rpm for 10 mins, 22° C. Pour the pellet on thefilters, wash the tube and add this as well. Transfer the supernatant tocentrifuge tubes and centrifuge at 4300 rpm for 10 min. Transfer thepellet to a beaker, wash the tube 2-3 times and top with water until 50ml. Freeze them until solid. Freeze dry them for 24 hours in Modulyofreeze drier. Once dry, weigh amount of cuticle recovered.

[0081] Final measure is calculated as follows:

((weight of cuticle recovered)/(initial hair weight))*100

[0082] This measure provides the % weight of cuticle abraded from thehair fibres which reflects the state of damage of the hair tested. Thusthe greater amount of cuticle recovered the more damaged the testedhair.

[0083] Results TABLE 1 % Weight of cuticle % Weight of cuticle recoveredfrom recovered from % reduction hair bleached hair bleached in damagewith solution 1 with solution 2 of hair when pH (cholesterol absent)(cholesterol present) cholesterol present 9.7 0.041 0.039 3.95 10.10.048 0.042 12.211 10.5 0.122 0.084 30.902

[0084] From the results in Table 1 is it clear that the presence ofCholesterol reduces the damage caused to hair by bleaching since the %weight of cuticle recovered when Cholesterol is present is less thanwhen Cholesterol is absent.

[0085] Surprisingly, however, the same amount of Cholesterol reduces thedamage to hair by a significantly greater extent when the bleachingsolution is buffered to a pH above 10 than below pH 10. For example, itcan be seen that at pH 9.7 there is 3.95% less damage to the hair whenCholesterol is present, but surprisingly there is 30.902% less damage tothe hair when the same amount of Cholesterol is present, but thebleaching solution is buffered to pH 10.5.

[0086] Thus we have surprisingly found that in a bleaching compositionbuffered to a pH above 10 cholesterol reduces hair damage to a greaterextent than in a bleaching composition buffered to a pH below 10.

Example 2

[0087] Hair Bleaching Composition

[0088] A hair bleaching composition was prepared in conventional manneraccording to the formulation details below. The developer and base werestored in separate bottles before use. To use, the developer and baseare mixed together to form a hair bleaching composition according to thepresent invention, having a pH greater than pH10. The composition isapplied to hair and left for 20 minutes. The hair is bleachedeffectively with minimal damage. Developer % Active Material Species %w/t Amount (g) Lowenol 6559 100 1.0  1.0 (ex. Lowenstein) PhosphoricAcid 85 0.03  0.03 (ex Sigma) Hydrogen Peroxide 35 17.1 17.1 (ex.Fisher) Polyquaterium 37 100 1.0  1.0 (ex Ciba) Water (DI)  80.87 Total100.00

[0089] Base Material % Active % w/w Amount (g) EDTA (ex Sigma) 100 0.6 0.6 Sodium Sulphite 100 1.0  1.0 (ex Fisher) Sodium Isoascorbate 1000.15  0.15 (ex Lowenstein) Propylene Glycol 100 8.4  8.4 (ex Sigma)Lowenol C-243 100 8.0  8.0 (ex Lowenstein) Lowenol S-216X 100 22.2 22.2(ex Lowenstein) Oleic Acid 100 8.6  8.6 (ex Aldrich) Isopropanol 10012.5 12.5 (ex Sigma) Cholesterol 100 0.3  0.3 (ex Sigma) Ammonia  28 33 33   (ex Sigma) Water (DI)  5.25 Total 100.00

Example 3

[0090] Hair Colouring Composition

[0091] A hair colouring composition was prepared in conventional manneraccording to the formulation details below. The developer and base werestored in separate bottles before use. To use, the developer and baseare mixed together to form a hair colouring composition according to thepresent invention, having a pH greater than pH10. The composition isapplied to hair and left for 20 minutes. The hair is colouredeffectively with minimal damage. Developer Material % AD % w/w Amount(g) Lowenol 6559 100 1.0  1.0 (ex Lowenstein) Phosphoric Acid  85 0.03 0.03 (ex Sigma) Hydrogen Peroxide  35 17.1 17.1 (ex Fisher)Polyquaterium 37 100 1.0  1.0 (ex Ciba) Water (DI)  80.87 Total 100.00

[0092] Dye Base Material % AD % w/w Amount (g) EDTA (ex Sigma) 100 0.6 0.6 Sodium Sulphite 100 1.0  1.0 (ex Fisher) Sodium Isoascorbate 1000.15  0.15 (ex Lowenstein) Propylene Glycol 100 8.4  8.4 (ex Sigma)Lowenol C-243 100 8.0  8.0 (ex Lowenstein) Lowenol S-216X 100 22.2 22.2(ex Lowenstein) Oleic acid 100 8.6  8.6 (ex Aldrich) Isopropanol 10012.5 12.5 (ex Sigma) Cholesterol 100 0.3  0.3 (ex Sigma) Ammonia  2833.0 33.0 (ex Sigma) RODOL DJ p- 100 1.0  1.0 phenylene-diamine (Primary100 1.0  1.0 intermediate) (ex Lowenstein)  3.25 RODOL RS resonanol(Coupler) (ex Lowenstein) Water (DI) Total 100.00

1. A hair bleaching composition comprising: (a) a peroxygen compound;(b) a buffering agent; and (c) cholesterol and/or derivatives thereof ormixtures thereof; characterised in that the pH of the composition isgreater than pH
 10. 2. A hair bleaching composition according to anypreceding claim wherein the pH of the composition is greater than orequal to pH 10.1, preferably greater than or equal to pH 10.3, mostpreferably greater than or equal to pH 10.5.
 3. A hair bleachingcomposition according to any preceding claim wherein the peroxygencompound is hydrogen peroxide.
 4. A hair bleaching composition accordingto any preceding claim wherein the buffering agent is ammonia.
 5. A hairbleaching composition according to any preceding claim furthercomprising at least one surfactant.
 6. A method of bleaching haircomprising applying to the hair a composition according to any of claims1 to 5 .
 7. A hair colouring composition comprising the hair bleachingcomposition according to any of claims 1 to 5 and additionally a haircolouring agent.
 8. A method of colouring hair comprising applying tothe hair a composition according to claim 7 .
 9. A hair bleaching kitcomprising: (a) a first package containing a peroxygen compound; (b) asecond package containing a buffering agent; (c) cholesterol and/orderivatives thereof or mixtures thereof in the first and/or secondpackage and/or in a third package; characterised in that the peroxyencompound, buffering agent and cholesterol and/or derivatives thereof ormixtures thereof form, when mixed, a hair bleaching compositionaccording to claim 1 having a pH greater than
 10. 10. A method ofbleaching hair using a hair bleaching kit according to claim 11comprising admixing the contents of the packages followed by applyingthe composition to the hair.
 11. A hair colouring kit comprising: (a) afirst package containing a water soluble peroxygen compound; (b) asecond package containing a buffering agent; (c) cholesterol and/orderivatives thereof or mixtures thereof in the first and/or secondpackage and/or in a third package; (d) a hair colouring agent in thesecond package and/or third package and/or a fourth package;characterised in that the water soluble peroxygen compound, bufferingagent, hair colouring agent and cholesterol and/or derivatives thereofor mixtures thereof form, when mixed, a hair colouring compositionaccording to claim 11 having a pH greater than
 10. 12. Method ofcolouring hair using a hair colouring kit according to claim 15comprising admixing the contents of the packages followed by applyingthe composition to the hair.